This 1953 Willys CJ-3B Jeep has a Buick V6, gm power steering, 11 inch brakes, full float rear axle with Detroit locker, warn overdrive, 5.38 gears of course, T98 transmission (it crawls), dual gas tanks (one under the passenger seat), made my own hanging pedals, dual system brakes, and a WWII trailer.
I got it in 1980, and did what the news guys now call a resto-mod, lol. Everything was rebuilt on it, some things twice. When I got the trailer in 1985, the first thing I did was repack the bearings and noticed it used the same hub and bearings as the front axle. Then of course the full float conversion on the rear axle uses the same spindles, hubs and bearings as the front axle. So when I made my spare tire rack I built the rack to bolt a spindle to, with hub and bearings. Everything that makes it roll. I just recently pulled the cage, seat frames and fuel tanks, as well as re-did the interior.
Kaiser Willys Jeep Blog Story – Darren Sanders
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Your jeep is built exactly like our flat fenders in the Pacific Northwest in the late 80’s. Everything including the rear lockouts and the spare spindle on the spare tire.
Your jeep is built exactly like our flat fenders in the Pacific Northwest in the late 80’s. Everything including the rear lockouts and the spare spindle on the spare tire.
Nice job. Tasteful mods. One suggestion. When I installed my overdrive unit I made a shifter that looks like the original PTO shifter to control the overdrive. Looks better and more authentic than the big ugly shifter they give you in the kit.
Nice job. Tasteful mods. One suggestion. When I installed my overdrive unit I made a shifter that looks like the original PTO shifter to control the overdrive. Looks better and more authentic than the big ugly shifter they give you in the kit.
nice job, I have a 1953 CJ3B also, completely restored, most all original, what did you use for a spare tire rack, I have been looking for one like it
nice job, I have a 1953 CJ3B also, completely restored, most all original, what did you use for a spare tire rack, I have been looking for one like it
The 5:38 gearing is unsurpassed for real trail riding, but the next time you deal with front wheel seals there are better seals for that application. 21096 double rubber lipped spring loaded will seal out more dirt with one lip and hold the grease in with the other lip, plus the spring load keeps the seal tighter if you enter wet conditions. It worked well for me.
The 5:38 gearing is unsurpassed for real trail riding, but the next time you deal with front wheel seals there are better seals for that application. 21096 double rubber lipped spring loaded will seal out more dirt with one lip and hold the grease in with the other lip, plus the spring load keeps the seal tighter if you enter wet conditions. It worked well for me.
You have done a lot of the same things that I have done to my 54 highhood.
I have a suggestion for your rear wheel well flares. The flares that are available for the Cj’s like 1965 thru 1971 fit perfectly on the highhoods. It is the same radius opening. I did not drill my body for installation of the flares, instead I cut PVC pipe into 1″ long piece and then split them and hook the inside flange of the body and the lip on the flare. They sometimes slide around on the wheel opening., no big deal. They are black plastic.
Dick Williams
You have done a lot of the same things that I have done to my 54 highhood.
I have a suggestion for your rear wheel well flares. The flares that are available for the Cj’s like 1965 thru 1971 fit perfectly on the highhoods. It is the same radius opening. I did not drill my body for installation of the flares, instead I cut PVC pipe into 1″ long piece and then split them and hook the inside flange of the body and the lip on the flare. They sometimes slide around on the wheel opening., no big deal. They are black plastic.
Dick Williams