Willys Jeep Parts Q&A: 9″ Brake Drum

9″ Brake Drum For 41-53 Willys MB, GPW, CJ-2A, CJ-3A

Replace your over turned, bent drums with new direct replacements on your Willys Jeep restoration project! Hub mounts on the outside just like original. Note: On mounting to some hubs the center hole must be turned down a few thousands for proper fit.

Call Mike@Kaiserwillys.com for details at TOLL FREE 1-888-648-4923 (Mon-Fri, 9AM-5PM EST).

New Brake Drum for 9″ x 1 3/4″ brakes. (4 required per vehicle) – Part#: A472

Q: Do you also sell the lug nut studs (left side) for this drum?

• A: Yes, they are part number: A473

Q: What do you have to do to get the hub and lugs to fit the drum? 

• A: You want to have them pressed together with plenty of backing in a hydraulic press is the best way.

Q: How do I get the hubs off if my lugs are stripped? I cannot get the lug nuts removed. It is a 1952 CJ-3A. This project has been sitting for a number of years. The jeep runs and I just replaced the master cylinder, yet I get no brake movement from the drums. I assume the wheel cylinders are frozen. Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated.

• A: Keep in mind some of the threads are reverse thread. That may be your problem. A little heat goes along way too.

Q: I have a 51 CJ-3A, with the pressed on hubs and drums, if I every get them off, can I buy new hubs and convert them to CJ-3B brakes so the brake drum mounts outside the hug. If I can what parts do indeed to buy from you guys.

• A: Really just CJ-3B drums should do the trick for you as long as your drums are pre-threaded.

Q: I have a broken rear brake drum. My front and rear drums appear slightly different, (the front ones are slightly deeper). You show only one kind for both front and rear as replacements. Is there a difference between front and rear drums? My Jeep is a ’49 CJ-3A. 

• A: They used the same drums front and rear on the Willys. This will be proper.

Q: How do you get the rear drum and hub back on the axle completely? The brake shoes are fully retracted and not dragging. I have completely cleaned the inside of the hub and axle shaft. The drum won’t go on the last 1/2 to 3/4 inch. 

• A: The hub mounts on the outside of the drum. Make sure this is done properly. Also make sure the eccentrics are turned all the way in on each side. Then make sure the wheel cylinders are compressed putting the fluid back into the master cylinder. Also make sure all bearings are full seated as well as axle shaft.

Q: What is the inside diameter of the brake drum? I don’t know if I can have current drums turned.

• A: They are 9″ drums inside to inside machine surface just like original.

Q: The rear brake hardware has two pieces of hardware that attach to the axle. One is steel and holds the brake hardware, the other is a formerly chrome piece. Do you have these two pieces available one for each side? I could not find them. I suppose I could get them sand blasted… and cleaned up.

• A: I’m not 100% what you mean. Please call us toll free we can help you out and get you fixed up.

Q: I have a CJ-2A willys 49 and I bought part # a472 brake drum (rear) it’s too deep can’t get hub nut on, Carter pin won’t go in, seems to be flush with backing plate, what’s wrong?

• A: The hub has to mount on the outside of the drum. If you have the later style drum: 808770 the hub has to mount on the inside of the drum. Please call us toll free. We can help you trouble shoot this.

Q: How are the brakes adjusted with these drums? The originals have a slot to get a feeler gauge into. These do not have that slot.

• A: You have upper and lower brake shoe adjusting eccentrics. You mechanics manual will detail it. You have to raise each wheel individually and turn the eccentrics in. Then adjust out until you heard a audible drag but not enough to cause friction.

Q: I have a 1946 CJ-2A. Why the reverse threads on some of the lug nuts and which wheel position is left and which is right?

• A: They used reverse threads on the early vehicles on one side and standard on the other.

Q: Would you ship some items to Brazil if needed?? I’m restoring a 1951 CJ-3A and it’s been hard to find some parts over here.

• A: Yes we ship daily UPS and USPS international. Please email mike@kaiserwillys.com your full shipping address and the part numbers and quantities you need and we can quote you out.

Q: I have a ’48 CJ-2A. The Jeep has 2 different rear 9″ brake hubs. One is attached to the hub by the lugs pressed thru the drum into the hub. The other fits over the hub from the well side of the hub. Which is correct for the ’48? And what year(s) is the other? I would like for them to match, and I prefer the one that fits over the hub as opposed attached to the hub. I also found 1″ well cylinders on both brakes. I am finding nothing is as expected… 

• A: The hub should mount on the outside of the drum like original. Sounds like someone put later CJ-3B/5 brakes drums on there.

Q: Do the drums need machined? One side spines freely the other side is hard to rotate. Everything is loose. Any ideas would be helpful.

• A: You probably just need to adjust your eccentrics. Your old ones would need to be turned. These new ones do not.

Q: I need to replace a rear brake drum on my 1944 MB Jeep with a hub attached which I can disassemble— but what concerns me is your drum looks different with the what appears to be copper backing on the outside of the hub. Will your drum accept my hub covering the wheel bearings? Your drum # is A472.

• A: That is just the rust prevent coating. The A472 is the proper drum for your MB.

*Manuals : Mechanics Manuals, Owners Manuals, Master Parts Lists

*EMAIL or call Mike Toll Free (1-888-648-4923) Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm EST if you have any questions about this part or restoring your Willys.

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Body Parts and Accessories, or Willys Jeep Restoration Parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!