September 2021 Update: This bit of knowledge has been expanded upon by Brian Snyder in a new post –
“Willys CJ-3A Clutch & Brake Shim / Spacer List”. Check it out!
This was sent to us by our customer, Dowie Soetenga a Mechanical Design Engineer. We wanted to share it.
CJ-3A Foot Control Mod:
I took it upon myself to re-engineer the CJ-3A foot controls using modern engineering and Kaiser Willys parts. I brought all the Kaiser Willys parts into CAD and did a full dimensional analysis. I thought I would share with you my final design.
I basically took the parts I bought from you and modified them to accommodate bronze sleeve bearings, bronze thrust bearings, precision shims, spherical ball end links, and grease fittings on the clutch release bellcrank. The OEM design has its issues of which I’m sure you are well aware. This design uses parts used in modern foot control and linkage engineering. It works perfect with no slop, and glides like glass.
Thanks again for all your help in getting my Willys restored.
-Dowie Soetenga, Mechanical Design Engineer
*EMAIL or call Mike Toll Free (1-888-648-4923) Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm EST if you have any questions about this part or restoring your Willys.
Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.
If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Parts, or Willys Jeep Restoration Parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!
I have a 49 willys. My clutch and brake system seem to be connected and to get full brakeing i must have the clutch pushed down. I am assumeing your system eliminates that problem. Am i wrong?
I have a 49 willys. My clutch and brake system seem to be connected and to get full brakeing i must have the clutch pushed down. I am assumeing your system eliminates that problem. Am i wrong?
Good job Dowie, I did this basic same thing about 25 years ago to my 46′ CJ2A at the advice of my best buddy who owns a machine shop, we remade the bell cranks and added bronze bushings and zerks where they lacked, this system is still tighter than a tick and smooth operating all these years later. The name slips me now but he used a type of bronze like a pilot bushing for the transmission input shaft into the crank. Again great job and you’ll never be repairing it in your life time.
Good job Dowie, I did this basic same thing about 25 years ago to my 46′ CJ2A at the advice of my best buddy who owns a machine shop, we remade the bell cranks and added bronze bushings and zerks where they lacked, this system is still tighter than a tick and smooth operating all these years later. The name slips me now but he used a type of bronze like a pilot bushing for the transmission input shaft into the crank. Again great job and you’ll never be repairing it in your life time.
Wow..thanks for taking the time and sharing your hard work and doing so in drawings! There is nothing better than a picture!! Awesome work!
Wow..thanks for taking the time and sharing your hard work and doing so in drawings! There is nothing better than a picture!! Awesome work!
Larry, is it sintered bronze? they are “self lubricating” oil impregnated bearings
Larry, is it sintered bronze? they are “self lubricating” oil impregnated bearings
Can a Person buy this. I have a 1948 cj2a
Can a Person buy this. I have a 1948 cj2a
Dowie,
Good JobThis is what AutoCad works does for your engineerig project’s.
I have a 1947Willys and retrofit the linkage with sintered bronze bushing’s
which uses very little lubrication. We used to use this type of bushing’s at the copper mine equipment. Thanks for sharing
Ed. Santi
Dowie,
Good JobThis is what AutoCad works does for your engineerig project’s.
I have a 1947Willys and retrofit the linkage with sintered bronze bushing’s
which uses very little lubrication. We used to use this type of bushing’s at the copper mine equipment. Thanks for sharing
Ed. Santi
Very cool and nice job.
Do any of you out there know how to install swing down clutch and brake pedals in a ’55 Willys Pickup?
I would like to install power disk brakes up front and get away from the under the floorboard system I now have.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Jim
Very cool and nice job.
Do any of you out there know how to install swing down clutch and brake pedals in a ’55 Willys Pickup?
I would like to install power disk brakes up front and get away from the under the floorboard system I now have.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Jim
My clutch and break have so much slop that the pedals rub against the tub!
Can you kindly give a exact parts number list and sourcing?
My clutch and break have so much slop that the pedals rub against the tub!
Can you kindly give a exact parts number list and sourcing?
My brother used to have the Warn franchise in Reno NV and did a lot of engine swaps. He used to move the cross bar farther to the rear and make new longer rods for more clearance. and another advantage was with longer relocated linkage, the clutch pedal was more stable. with short stock rods, the engine torque would conpress the motor mount rubber and your clutch pedal would raise as the engine moved on the mounts.
My brother used to have the Warn franchise in Reno NV and did a lot of engine swaps. He used to move the cross bar farther to the rear and make new longer rods for more clearance. and another advantage was with longer relocated linkage, the clutch pedal was more stable. with short stock rods, the engine torque would conpress the motor mount rubber and your clutch pedal would raise as the engine moved on the mounts.
The sleeve bearings and thrust bearings are oil impregnated bronze. They can be ordered through http://www.mcmaster.com . The spherical ball ends and precision shims as well. This retro fit is a minimal cost upgrade with significant advantages.
The sleeve bearings and thrust bearings are oil impregnated bronze. They can be ordered through http://www.mcmaster.com . The spherical ball ends and precision shims as well. This retro fit is a minimal cost upgrade with significant advantages.
I converted a hanging pedal system from a newer Wrangler to my 3b. I now use a pull hydraulic clutch slave cylinder I anchored to the framerail to make it work. It is smooth as silk and requires no maintenance. The brake booster (cj7) works the stock vacuum pump pretty hard, and i don’t know if you could fit it in the earlier models due to hood height. The hardest part was cutting a wedge out of the pedal bracket to make it fit the old dash specs.
I converted a hanging pedal system from a newer Wrangler to my 3b. I now use a pull hydraulic clutch slave cylinder I anchored to the framerail to make it work. It is smooth as silk and requires no maintenance. The brake booster (cj7) works the stock vacuum pump pretty hard, and i don’t know if you could fit it in the earlier models due to hood height. The hardest part was cutting a wedge out of the pedal bracket to make it fit the old dash specs.
Dowie, I’m very interested in your design. A previous owner of my M38 converted the clutch to a hydraulic set-up, I don’t care for it, and I want to un-convert it. So, your modification is very timely for me. However, I’m having trouble reading your drawing on my desktop when I do a Save As and try to magnify it. Is there a better way to do this (I’m obviously not the most computer knowledgeable guy out there). Or, would it make more sense to pay you to print and ship hard copies of the drawing and associated pictures? Thanks!
Dowie, I’m very interested in your design. A previous owner of my M38 converted the clutch to a hydraulic set-up, I don’t care for it, and I want to un-convert it. So, your modification is very timely for me. However, I’m having trouble reading your drawing on my desktop when I do a Save As and try to magnify it. Is there a better way to do this (I’m obviously not the most computer knowledgeable guy out there). Or, would it make more sense to pay you to print and ship hard copies of the drawing and associated pictures? Thanks!
My first car was a 69 CJ-5 with Dauntless V-6. The rod from the pedal to the bellcrank snapped at the bend at a traffic light and I almost hit the car in front of me! I drove for days speed shifting and turning it off and starting in gear at lights! This modification is just what the doctor ordered.
My first car was a 69 CJ-5 with Dauntless V-6. The rod from the pedal to the bellcrank snapped at the bend at a traffic light and I almost hit the car in front of me! I drove for days speed shifting and turning it off and starting in gear at lights! This modification is just what the doctor ordered.
Hi Guys:
has anybody received a larger copy of the plan? or maybe a partlist. Unfortunately I
its so hard to deceiver.
Thank you
Maxt
Hi Guys:
has anybody received a larger copy of the plan? or maybe a partlist. Unfortunately I
its so hard to deceiver.
Thank you
Maxt
Can I get a copy of these plans?
The jpg on the blog is too blurry when zoomed in to read.
Can I get a copy of these plans?
The jpg on the blog is too blurry when zoomed in to read.
Dowie Soetenga,
Can you e-mail me the drawings and parts list???
I can’t decipher the drawing that was posted.
Thanks a Bunch!!!
zspatterson@gmail.com
Dowie Soetenga,
Can you e-mail me the drawings and parts list???
I can’t decipher the drawing that was posted.
Thanks a Bunch!!!
zspatterson@gmail.com
I am at this point in my ground up resto of a 51 cj and would love to get a better jpg or a parts list of the components you used in this upgrade. the picture is drool fuel and I must have.
thank you
rick
I am at this point in my ground up resto of a 51 cj and would love to get a better jpg or a parts list of the components you used in this upgrade. the picture is drool fuel and I must have.
thank you
rick
I would like a copy of the plans. I’m happy somebody fixed this.
Thanks
Denis
I would like a copy of the plans. I’m happy somebody fixed this.
Thanks
Denis
Be real nice to see the specs. on what Dowie did, searched everywhere in WI and all what he has done or worked for is now not listed.
Anyone here have the Plans on what he did?
Douglas
Be real nice to see the specs. on what Dowie did, searched everywhere in WI and all what he has done or worked for is now not listed.
Anyone here have the Plans on what he did?
Douglas
I know this is a super old thread but is anyone selling this as a kit or have the parts list?
I know this is a super old thread but is anyone selling this as a kit or have the parts list?
Excellant design. Notice all dims 3 plcs. Lol. Basic setup needs only 2 plc. Dims here. I too was a design engineer in autotive. Keep up theGREAT ENGINEERING.
Excellant design. Notice all dims 3 plcs. Lol. Basic setup needs only 2 plc. Dims here. I too was a design engineer in autotive. Keep up theGREAT ENGINEERING.
The last illustration showing the clutch linkage shows the crossshaft (between the chassis and transfer box).
In my experience (50 years plus of Jeep ownership) this is the wrong way around resulting in a very hard clutch pedal whereas fitted the other way around you can push the pedal down with your thumb.
The last illustration showing the clutch linkage shows the crossshaft (between the chassis and transfer box).
In my experience (50 years plus of Jeep ownership) this is the wrong way around resulting in a very hard clutch pedal whereas fitted the other way around you can push the pedal down with your thumb.