Here is a top ten list for those of you who don’t have time (or money) to do a COMPLETE restore
in a month or less. If you are like most of us, that “project” in your garage is screaming “FEED ME SEYMOUR” and you are feeling guilty that you can’t give it the show quality attention it deserves… Relax. Your “other half” will happily roll along if you follow our top ten suggestions below for starting on your Willys restoration…
1. Mechanics Manuals – Because you need to know how to put things back together.
Mechanics Manual on KaiserWillys.com
2. Master cylinder – Because its important to be able to stop.
Master Cylinders on KaiserWillys.com
3. Carburetors – A good running carburetor is the heart of the motor!
Carburetors on KaiserWillys.com
4. Clutch Kits – A greasy clutch wont get you far…
Clutch Kits on KaiserWillys.com
5. Gas Tanks – A rusty tank will ruin your engine.
Gas Tanks on KaiserWillys.com
6. Tires – It’s pretty obvious why.
Tires on KaiserWillys.com
7. Water pumps – Staying cool in the summer. Overheating will ruin all of your key engine components.
Water Pumps on KaiserWillys.com
8. Exhaust System – Your motor won’t run right without a proper one.
Exhaust Systems on KaiserWillys.com
9. Wiring Harness – An old harness is dangerous AND a fire hazard.
Wiring Harnesses on KaiserWillys.com
10. YOU NEED KAISER WILLYS AUTO SUPPLY! WE ARE HERE TO ANSWER ANY QUESTIONS, ANY TIME. JUST A PHONE CALL OR CLICK AWAY!!!
(The image for the post above was found at Jeep4ever.ca)
Check out the Jeep Buggy rock crawling video below:
Pretty well have covered those 10 things. However, the master cylinder looks like it is going to be a real chore. Not much room under there, and I don’t want to dismantle the whole ’47 to get at it. My Dad bought this CJ 2A in 1956, then sold it in 1959. I got it back from that owner in 1997. Got a lot of hunting use out of it until the transmission went south in 2006. Finally found one though, and it’s back up and running again – except for the stopping part…
LOL, I love your top ten list! #2 master cylinder because you need to be able to stop! LOL, I could hardly read the rest after that. Specialy since when I was first learning to drive back in ’78 on a ’46 CJ2a I had a master cylinder go bad on me. In the words of C.W. McCall “it was like stepin on a plumb”, scared the bejeeze outa me! Thank GOD there wasnt any traffic comming, for both me and my Jeep!! For those aspireing mechs out there, when you READ your MANUALS!!, READ them completely, dont skip over the part that says DONT put OIL in your MASTER CYLINDER!! It works great for about 2 weeks!!
I purchased a 47 2A last fall from a friend of mine out in CA. I left it there till I can go out west with a trailer to get it home to OK. The jeep is in nice shape as far as the body goes. No rust, period! The engine smokes a little so that will be rebuilt, the body will come off and a frame up will be done so the 10 most done things will be added. Plan to replace most every thing. The 90 and 18 are in great shape as well as the diffs. Some one over the years has installed air vents in the body just ahead of the body drain vents. They are well done and are functioal I suspose. However I don’t think the L will ever go fast enough to let much of an air flow in, top off gives me all the flow I need especially in crawling around mode so I may remove the vent covers and close up the holes. Did I say it also has a nice warn OD? This will be my 5th project on a flattie since the late 60’s my last one was a 54 3B in 76. My middle son still has that one in his warehouse with only about 3k on it since I did it. I have a nice 50 Willys Overland PU that just sits in the barn taking up space so it may go to fund the 2A project.
I pretty much have the first 10 taken care of… and the glass. Next — probably some steering stuff (after I replace the starter bendix that’s making new noises), then the body work and paint. After which I’ll be afraid to drive it off-road. Wait a minute! I don’t want a trailer queen. Maybe the body work and paint isn’t such a good idea!
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Good “just get it on the road” suggestions, however the most important items are good glass and properly functioning running lights so you won’t get pulled over when you are enjoying that cold beer. Thanks, Bob
I liked the 10 things to start with. Other things: Electronic ignition———-now available for most engines and much more reliable.
Electric fuel pump———-with the proper fuel pressure——–
modern brake master cylinder–dual.
These things do not detract from being “original equipment” as they are mostly undetectable.