Kaiser Willys Jeep Blog

Ignition System: Willys Jeep Parts

admin — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:28:02 +0000

The method by which an internal combustion engine is powered comes from burning a fuel and air mixture in the engine cylinders under compression. The gases are ignited by a spark made to jump a small gap in the spark plug within each combustion chamber. The ignition system provides this spark. The spark must occur in each cylinder at precisely the proper time, and the spark in the other cylinders must follow in the correct sequence of firing order. In order to accomplish this the following units are required:

Battery, this supplies the electrical energy.
Ignition Coil, transforms the battery low tension current to high tension current which can jump the spark plug gap in the cylinders under compression.
Distributor, delivers the spark to the correct cylinders and used the mechanical breaker, this opens and closes the primary circuit at the exact time.
Spark Plugs, provide the gap in the engine cylinders.
Wiring, connects the various units.
Ignition Switch, controls the battery current when desiring to start or stop the engine.

General diagram of the wiring system and relative position of electrical components in the ignition system.

Distributor: The distributor is located on the right side of the engine and is operated by a coupling on the oil pump shaft, this is driven by a spiral gear on the camshaft. The spark advance is automatic, controlled by built-in centrifugal weights. Some parts of the distributor can be checked or replaced while the distributor is mounted on the engine, it is best to occasionally remove it for a good check. Detailed instructions on the removal of your old worn out distributor and installation new distributor.

Distributor Cap: The distributor cap should be inspected for cracks, carbon runners and evidence of arching. If any of these occur, the cap should be replaced. Clean any corroded high tension terminals.

Rotor: Check the rotor for cracks or excessive burning at the end of the metal strip. The end of the rotor will become burned after normal use. If the top of the rotor is burned it shows the rotor is too short and needs replacing. When this condition is found the distributor cap segment will be burned on the horizontal face and the cap will also need replacing.

Condenser: The condenser lengthens the life of the distributor points by preventing arching at the contacts. Also it provides a hotter spark by creating a reverse surge of current which rapidly breaks down the magnetic field of the coil by demagnetizing the core. If the condenser is leaky a weak spark will occur. Check the condenser lead for broken wires or frayed insulation. Clean and tighten the connections on the terminal posts. Make sure the condenser is mounting firmly on the distributor for a good ground connection.

Distributor Points:

Examine the distributor points. If showing wear, poor mating, transferred metal, or pitting then new ones should be installed. Clean the points with a proper solvent and a stiff bristled brush.
Check the alignment of the point for a full contact. If not properly aligned, bend the stationary contact bracket slightly to provide alignment.
The contact gap should be set at .020″ measured with a wire gauge. The gap is adjusted by loosening the lock screw and turning adjustment eccentric screw until correct gap. The fiber block on the breaker arm should be resting on the highest point on the cam while the adjustment is made. Recheck the gap after locking adjustment.
Apply thin film of cam lubricant to the cam to lessen fiber block wear.
Check point contact spring pressure, should be between 17 and 20 ounces. Check with a spring scale hooked on the breaker arm at the contact and pull at right angle to the breaker arm. Execute the reading just as the points separate. Adjust the point pressure by loosening the stud holding the end of the contact arm spring and slide the end of the spring in or out. Re-tighten the stud and check the pressure. Too low pressure will cause engine missing at high speeds. Too high a pressure will cause rapid wear of the cam, block, and points.

If it is time for the distributor to be replaced use this Helpful Guides and Illustrations: Electronic Distributor – Install Guide to help you navigate your way through this process.

How to remove the ignition coil from your Willys Jeep – Part of an ongoing “Jeep” disassembly and restoration series sponsored by Kaiser Willys.

To watch other videos on the disassembly of your Willys Jeep Vehicle refer to The Build Your Willys series on YouTube. Order the Service Manual For The Universal Jeep Vehicles, includes complete vehicle disassembly, assembly, and blowup diagrams.

Complete Solid State Electronic Ignition Distributor 12 volt For 41-71 Jeep & Willys with 4-134 engine

Direct replacement for all 12 volt systems. Comes complete with cap and simple wire hook up with instructions. Does away with old points and moving parts of original distributors.

Call Mike @Kaiserwillys.com for details at TOLL FREE 1-888-648-4923 (Mon-Fri, 9AM-5PM EST).

Electronic Ignition Distributor for 12 volt Systems - Part#: 923068

Q: What type of coil can be used? If coil requires a ballast resistor, do the internal electronics replace the resistor or do I still need to use it? Do I remove the stock condenser?

A: You want to use an internal resist coil. But you can use an external resist coil. The instructions come complete with how to wire up either. It is very simple to do.

Q: Can a vacuum advance be fitted?

A: No it doesn’t need it. It uses a centrifical advance.

Q: Are replacement caps, rotors, available?

A: Sure. Please call me toll free.

*Manuals : Mechanics Manuals, Owners Manuals, Master Parts Lists

*EMAIL or call Mike Toll Free (1-888-648-4923) Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm EST if you have any questions about this part or restoring your Willys.

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Electrical Parts, or Willys Jeep Restoration Parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

A Jeep and his 70 Year Old Teenager

admin — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:30:30 +0000

Here is a story about my husband and his 1949 Jeep. I hope you enjoy it – Jerry’s wife Pat. Recently I saw my husband lose 53 years with just one signature. He signed papers to purchase a 1949 CJ-3A Willys Jeep. (He always adds CJ-3A.) It took a trip to a nondescript wide spot in the road near Yosemite National Park. The owners lived far away from civilization. Jerry became only the fourth owner of this near mint condition vehicle. The owner had babied this car—painted it white, put in new seat covers and top, and new tires that still have tread. We had to tow it home behind what used to be Jerry’s favorite means of transportation—his 2003 Chevy Silverado pickup—you know, the one with high torque. The three hour trip to our home, also far away from civilization, proved to be stress-producing. The short towbar did not allow the jeep much turning room and the tires did not want to cooperate with the pickup at times. Jerry would jump out of the pickup, readjust the steering wheel of the jeep, and jump back in the pickup and head on down the road, praying that the next turn would be more successful. Maybe the Willys Jeep was afraid of leaving his life in the foothills. He (Jerry says his Jeep is a boy) should not have worried. He was being moved to another remote location.
Once nearer our ranch, we pulled into our familiar gas station to fill him up. Jerry wanted to drive the Jeep on home—about nine miles. Unfortunately, the towbar connection did not want to budge. I wanted to continue towing it on home to the ranch, but Jerry was insistent. “But I want to drive it!” Jerry whined in a little boy voice. By sheer will he raised the towbar and drove off in the jeep with me following him—just in case. As I saw my 70 year old husband of nearly 50 years drive off in front of me down familiar roads I no longer saw “Grandpa,” but instead I saw my 17 year old boyfriend flying down the road with his ball cap covering his gray hair. “How fast did I go?” he asked as he pulled over at an “S” curve, about half way home. “About 55,” I answered, having estimated his speed by my own. (The Jeep’s speedometer needs help.) So he stepped on the gas pedal a little harder and got it up to 60 mph before he pulled happily into the driveway at the ranch. He honked his tiny horn and our son-in-law came out to enjoy Jerry’s toy. He did the appropriate guy-noises over the lavish descriptions Jerry was happy to provide. One granddaughter came out of the house and gave her 14 year old opinion, “It’s cute!” Jerry spent the afternoon reading the old owner’s manual. (Yes, the former owner still had it!) After giving the 14 year old a ride down to the end of the dead end country road, he parked it in the small barn because rain was in the forecast. Then he ate dinner, crawled on the couch, and had a pre-bedtime nap. No doubt he had dreams of Jerry and Willys traveling down many country roads together.
Given my very practical nature, I was not immediately onboard when Jerry began searching online for a third vehicle for two people to own. Sensing my reticence, he began arguing his case: 1. I want a toy. 2. Maybe one of the granddaughters will need to drive one of our vehicles to school next year, and the ultimate plea 3. I don’t have too many years left, and (back to #1) I want an old Jeep! I told him the final decision was his, and that I would ride with him to look at it. I’ll have to admit that my first impression was positive. As I looked at the white paint job, the new seats, heard about the undercoating, and saw the gleaming engine, I was impressed. Knowing market prices of old Jeeps, Jerry was already convinced that he wanted this particular Jeep. In fact, Jerry was carrying the price of the car in hundred dollar bills in the pickup. Getting the money from the bank had been interesting. The bank was extremely busy, and I cautioned Jerry not to use his regular voice to tell the teller how much he needed. Jerry’s voice carries—even his “stage whisper” carries. I could see an evil man in the bank following us, beating us up, and stealing our money that was formerly set aside for a hearing aid purchase. Later he told me that he had momentarily thought of passing the teller a note with the amount of withdrawal on it. Thankfully, he abandoned that idea. We don’t want to be on the evening news. Our checking account is less, Jerry’s hearing aid savings are depleted, but I see one happy 70 year old teenager ready to play with his new toy, and that makes his 70 year old girlfriend happy, too.

Kaiser Willys Jeep Blog Story – Jerry and Pat

If you would like to share your Willys Jeep Story please send us a line. We ‘d love to meet your Jeep.

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Looking for, Willys Jeep Parts, Willys Jeep replacement parts, Willys Jeep body parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Willys Jeep Parts Q&A: Horn Button Repair Kit

admin — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 14:30:50 +0000

Master Horn Button Repair Kit for 1-1/4″ Steering Wheels For 46-64 CJ-2A, 3A, 3B, 5

New Replacement Master Horn Button Kit for 1-1/4″ Steering Wheels. Comes complete with new rubber button, specialty nut and brass disc, wiring, and small parts kit.

Call Mike @Kaiserwillys.com for details at TOLL FREE 1-888-648-4923 (Mon-Fri, 9AM-5PM EST).
New Replacement Master Horn Button Kit – Part#: 802359K

Q: HORN QUESTION – I HAVE A 1961 FC-150. IT HAS A ROD IN THE CENTER OF THE STEERING COLUNM THAT IS SUPPOSED TO ACTIVATE THE HORN SWITCH – IT DOES NOT WORK. THE HORN SOUNDS ALL THE TIME IF YOU LEAVE THE WIRE CONNECTED AT THE SWITCH.

A: It sounds like you are making the connection on the rod and missing the insulator to disrupt.

Q: I have a 1948 Jeepster and need a kit like this. Would this one work?

A: No, this is for CJ’s only. The part number you want to order is: 643348K

Q: I have a CJ-2A. Do I need anything else to make the horn work besides this kit? Also, I need a new horn. Do you have them? What category are they in?

A: This is really complete. You may also need part number: A302, A302B

If yours are missing. We also have new 6volt and 12 volt horns. It is a new item. Please call us toll free.

Q: In which order do these parts go on and also there is nothing to screw the big silver bolt on to the steering wheel. I have a 1948 CJ-2A, there is just an open hole where the horn goes, am I missing any other parts that I need..

A: The nut screws onto the end of your tube & worm gear. Please call me toll free. I can walk you thru the install.

Q: I’m ordering the plastic horn button cover, steering wheel, pins and cushions for horn button cover so what electric components do I need to complete my horn setup…I’m already ordering the relay for the 12v setup so what harness or HORN BUTTON is required to complete the 1951 willys truck?

A: This is not for a Willys Truck. It is for the vehicles listed above only. We have the horn button, cushions, and pins inner cup available for the Willys Truck. Please call me toll free. I can help out.

*Manuals : Mechanics Manuals, Owners Manuals, Master Parts Lists

*EMAIL or call Mike Toll Free (1-888-648-4923) Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm EST if you have any questions about this part or restoring your Willys.

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Electrical Parts & Accessories, or Willys Jeep Restoration Parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Kaiser Willys Jeep of the Week: 055

admin — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 14:30:40 +0000

055: Cal Pangburn’s CJ-3A Jeep

I’m in the process of making this Jeep into a Ford. As I get the Ford parts I put them on or save them until I can. It has a Ford frame and Ford motor (most of it) and part of the body is Ford. I have the Ford front and back rear ends and the trans and transfer that I am in the process of rebuilding and then they will go in it.

I should have taken pictures when I first got this as it was sitting behind a barn in a pile of weeds. You couldn’t see the rear ends as they were completely sunk down into the frozen ground and about all that wasn’t rusted away was the dash the left front fender and part of the tub. It took two other Jeeps to get to this point. But man was it fun. When I brought it home my girlfriend asked me what I was going to do with that junk now she likes riding in it and can’t believe it’s the same Jeep.

-Cal Pangburn

Have Willys Jeep photos? Submit them to our blog webmaster.

Go to Kaiser Willys Community PHOTO GALLERY for more Great Willys Jeeps!

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Parts, Willys replacement parts, Willys body parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Fuel Pump Checklist: Willys Jeep Parts

admin — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 14:57:52 +0000

The Willys Jeep Fuel System consists of the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, carburetor and air cleaner.

The most important step for maintaining a fuel system is to keep it clean and free from water. The system should be periodically inspected for leaks. In this segment of Willys Jeep Parts the fuel pump will be covered from the proper operation of the fuel pump to its removal and important questions that are asked.

Fuel Pump Testing

The correct fuel pump pressure is essential to satisfactory engine performance. Pressure that is too low will affect proper carburetion. Pressure that is too high will cause fuel leakage at the carburetor intake valve. This is the checklist for a single action fuel pump.

To check fuel pump pressure, connect a pressure gauge into the fuel line at the carburetor with a T-fitting. At 1800 rpm. engine speed, the pressure should not exceed 4.75 psi.
For a test of volume, the pump should prime itself in 18 seconds at 120 rpm. engine speed.
For a test of vacuum, the pump should pull 10.25″ of mercury at 1800 rpm. engine speed.

Listed below are the tests to be performed on the dual action fuel pump to check for correct performance.

Volume Check: To measure the fuel pump capacity (the amount of fuel delivered in a given time) disconnect the pump to carburetor line at the carburetor end. Place the open end of the line in a container suitable for the amount of liquids delivered. Start the engine and operate at normal idle speed. The volume should be one quart U.S. or 1 liter within one minute.
Pressure Check: To measure fuel pump pressure (force of fuel delivery) disconnect the pump to carburetor line at the carburetor end. Insert a pressure gauge and T-fitting into the open end of this line and into the carburetor. Engage the engine and operate at normal idle speed. Pressure should be 2.5 to 3.75 psi. at 1800 rpm. and at 16″ above the outlet.
Vacuum Check: To measure the fuel pump vacuum (the pull of the pump at the inlet side) disconnect the pump to fuel tank line at the fuel pump. Connect a vacuum gauge to the fuel pump inlet. Start the engine, accelerate to specified speed, and hold this engine speed while taking a gauge reading. Correct gauge reading is 8″ (203 mm.) of mercury at 1200 rpm. and 10.5″ (267 mm.) at 1800 rpm.
Vacuum Booster Check: To test the condition of the vacuum booster pump, disconnect both inlet and outlet lines at the pump. Attach a vacuum gauge to the windshield wiper connection at the pump. Start the engine, accelerate to 2000 rpm., and hold this engine speed while taking a gauge reading. Correct gauge reading is 10″ (254 a 356 cm.) of mercury.

In addition to the previous tests mentioned the following can also be checked.

Check for secure mounting of the fuel pump. The rocker arm may be working the entire pump up and down, rather than just the pump diaphragms.
Remove and clean the fuel sediment bowl.
Check all fuel lines.

How to remove fuel components from your Willys Jeep – Part of an ongoing “Jeep” disassembly and restoration series sponsored by Kaiser Willys.

Brand new with the original style glass bowl and screen. Fits both flat head and overhead valve motors.

Call Mike @Kaiserwillys.com for details at TOLL FREE 1-888-648-4923 (Mon-Fri, 9AM-5PM EST).

New Single Action Fuel Pump – Part#: 119238

Q: I bought the fuel pump #119238 for my 1945 GPW. I installed it and the jeep started right up with a little priming to the carb. The question I have is as the vehicle runs the gas in the bowl doesn’t get much more then just off the bottom of the bowl and over the screen. How high is the gas suppose to get in this bowl? It seems to be running right at a stand still in the garage but before I take it out I just wanted to be sure it’s correct and I won’t break down.

A: It doesn’t fill up all the way typically. The bowl will fill up a little more or less depending on speed/pressure. Sounds like your good to go.

Q: I just got my new fuel pump in! What a beautiful thing it is… glass bowl and all… I just have one question. Does the cam need to be in any particular position prior to me installing? The reason I ask is the other one was working perfectly, until I pulled it out to be able to get to the lines. And when I put it back.. no fuel pump love…. I’m glad I have the new one, now the entire system is new up to the carb…

A: Just make sure to install this glass bowl pointing up and when you install it make sure the lobe is below the fuel pump arm. Angle it in.

Q: Upon starting my CJ-2A it takes a long time for gas to reach the engine after sitting for an extended period. I think gas must be draining back from the carb over time. It is not leaking externally. Will this new fuel pump cure the problem?

A: It should help. When you start your vehicle pump the pedal a few times prior to get the fuel going and prime it.

*Manuals : Mechanics Manuals, Owners Manuals, Master Parts Lists

*EMAIL or call Mike Toll Free (1-888-648-4923) Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm EST if you have any questions about this part or restoring your Willys.

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Fuel Parts, or Willys Jeep Restoration Parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Jay Stanfield’s DJ-5 “Postal Jeep”

admin — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 14:30:30 +0000

Jay Stanfield in Cleburne, Texas… age 66, retired from the aircraft industry and living on 30 acres in the country… I bought the DJ-5G early in 2008 from an abandoned deer lease for $200. It started life as a “Postal Jeep” but I changed it all from right hand drive to left hand drive so I wouldn’t have to drive on the wrong side of the road any more. The right/left conversion is very straight forward and uses almost all factory parts.

I installed a CJ-5 steering gear box, cut the instrument panel in half, swapped it end for end, and welded it back. All of the wiring was extended 30″ to reach the new location of the gauges. The brakes and gas pedal were swapped side per side as were the brake and fuel line. Even the wiper motor and linkage swapped sides. A donor DJ was purchased for $150 and furnished all the glass and another seat plus lots of spare parts. The body was stripped by hand and repainted “Pale Buckskin” from the local auto supply.
Wal-Mart roll-in bed liner was used in the floor after 3/4″ foam board insulated the inner firewall. The engine is the Audi 4 cylinder overhead cam 85 Hp with a chrysler 3 speed automatic. It starts instantly and runs great. It is geared very low and just what I need for around the pastures.

Kaiser Willys Jeep Blog Story – Jay Stanfield

If you would like to share your Willys Jeep Story please send us a line. We ‘d love to meet your Jeep.

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Looking for, Willys Jeep Parts, Willys Jeep replacement parts, Willys Jeep body parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Willys Jeep Parts Q&A: Axle Shaft Assembly

admin — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:30:43 +0000

Front Axle Shaft Assembly for Drivers Side For 41-71 CJ/MB/GPW/M38/M38-A1

Replace the old worn out axle shaft on your willys jeep with a new Front Axle Shaft Assembly (LH). Contains Both Long and Short Shaft with Universal Joint. Application: Dana 25 front

Call Mike @Kaiserwillys.com for details at TOLL FREE 1-888-648-4923 (Mon-Fri, 9AM-5PM EST).
New Front Axle Shaft Assembly for Drivers Side (LH). Part#: 909459

Q: Will this shaft directly replace the bendix type universal joint without any modifications?

A: Yes, that is correct. They just slide in.

Q: I will need both driver and passenger side front axle shaft assemblies. How are the universal joints lubricated? Can’t see any grease fittings.

A: The other part number is 909460. Yes, these come complete with fittings for grease.

Q: The old shafts have threaded ends and the new ones don’t. Do you have to change out the hubs to fit the new style axle shafts?

A: These are interchangeable. These will work with all the original equipment perfectly.

Q: Just wondering if I can replace one axle. the new ones have the universal joint type pivot, while the old existing one that I won’t change out will still have the older type joint. My jeep is a 1953 CJ-3B. Thanks Jim

A: Yes you can replace just one side no problem.

*Manuals : Mechanics Manuals, Owners Manuals, Master Parts Lists

*EMAIL or call Mike Toll Free (1-888-648-4923) Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm EST if you have any questions about this part or restoring your Willys.

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Axle Parts & Accessories, or Willys Jeep Restoration Parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Kaiser Willys Jeep of the Week: 054

admin — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 14:30:39 +0000

054: Ben Brantley’s 1951 Willys Station Wagon

This is my 1951 Utility Station Wagon 4wheel drive. Chevy 350, 700r4 tranny and Chevy Tahoe transfer case. The axles are from an International Scout. All the rust has been cut out and replaced. The dash has been customized along with the interior.
It is a blast to drive. My 5 year old son thinks it is cool to ride in and my 20 month old daughter cries if I don’t take her for a ride.

It is truly the best family vehicle and the all time greatest SUV!

-Ben Brantley

Have Willys Jeep photos? Submit them to our blog webmaster.

Go to Kaiser Willys Community PHOTO GALLERY for more Great Willys Jeeps!

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Parts, Willys replacement parts, Willys body parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Master Brake Cylinder Checklist: Willys Jeep Parts

admin — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 14:30:02 +0000

Master Brake Cylinder For 46-66 Jeep & Willys

Brake Service: Check List

Check fluid levels in the Master Brake Cylinder: Fluid should be to a level 1/2″ below the top of the fill hole. Use only heavy-duty brake fluid that conforms to the specification SAE-70-R3.
Check brake pedal adjustment: There should be at least a 1/2″ free pedal travel before the push rod engages the master cylinder piston. Adjust the brake pedal by shortening or lengthening the brake master cylinder eye bolt.
Check brake pedal play: If the pedal travels more than halfway to the floorboard, the brakes may need adjusting. First check to see that the brake pedal has 1/2″ free travel. Lift up the wheels to clear the floor. Rotate the brake shoe eccentric. Use a wrench to loosen the lock nut for the forward brake shoe, hold the lock nut and with brake wrench turn the eccentric towards the front of the vehicle until the brake shoes strike the drum, then while turning the wheel with one hand release the eccentric until the wheel turns freely. Hold the eccentric in position and fasten the lock nut. Repeat these instructions to adjust the reverse shoe, only turn the eccentric towards the back of the vehicle. Check the fluid level on the master cylinder after all four brakes are done.
Check tire pressure after adjusting if the brakes pull to one side: Tire pressure should be 26 psi for the front and 28 psi for the rear. Correct tire pressure ensures even braking. If the brakes still pull to one side check the brake lining for foreign material and clean if possible. If cleaning does not correct this issue replace the linings. Check front wheel alignment and balance if side pull persists.
Check brake system for leaks: Apply steady pressure on the brake pedal to see if it falls away which would indicate a leak. If the pedal fall away check for the leaking wheel cylinder. This is done by removing the wheels and drums and carefully checking each cylinder. Also check all lines and fittings. If the leak has allowed brake fluid to get on the linings, the linings will have to be replaced.
Check pressure of hydraulic system: If “spongy” this can be corrected by bleeding the brakes. If the fuel line has been disconnected or air has gotten into the lines the brakes must be bled. The system must be free from air at all times. Begin bleeding by starting at the wheel with the longest line from the master cylinder, the next longest second, etc. Keep the hydraulic brake fluid level of the master cylinder at least 3/4 full during the bleeding. Carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler plug. Remove the filler plug and fill the master cylinder to the lower edge of the filler neck. Clean all bleeder connections of all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose and fixture to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place end of the tube in a glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Depress the foot pedal, letting it to return very slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the fluid through the line and out of the bleeder hose which carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose. Repeat this at each wheel cylinder and after that has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug. Dispose of all used brake fluids, the fluids cannot be reused due to air bubbles and dirt.
If brakes are locked and the vehicle cannot be moved, open the bleeder screw on any of the wheel cylinders this should release the brakes. This may be caused by a defective master cylinder or the use of low grade brake fluid which has expanded because of heat.

This comprehensive Build Your Willys YouTube video shows the steps on how to remove your worn out sloppy master brake cylinder.

In order to remove your old worn out master cylinder first, be sure to disconnect all brake lines from the master cylinder. Inside the frame of the willys jeep, remove the cotter pin from the pedal shaft next to the brake pedal arm. To disconnect the master cylinder tie bar, loosen the master cylinder then free the Tie bar from the cross shaft. Remove the cotter pin, master cylinder eye bolt and washer from the brake pedal. Slide the brake pedal arm off of the pedal cross shaft. Next, remove the bolts from the frame. Remove the Brake master cylinder assembly.

Comes complete with boot. For early frame mounted vehicles. Both mounting holes are unthreaded.

Call Mike @Kaiserwillys.com for details at TOLL FREE 1-888-648-4923 (Mon-Fri, 9AM-5PM EST).

New Master Brake Cylinder - Part#: 805223

Q: Is there a hole in the floor board to get to the master cylinder to put fluid in?  

A: Some models have a access hole. Some don’t. We do carry a cover part number#: 7697522 that you can install.

Q: Rebuilding an M38A1 1954. Original master cylinder is sloppy. Are kits dependable or should I replace?

 A: The master cylinder repair kits are a good option but the bore on your old master cylinder needs to be smooth. I always try to steer people towards this new master cylinder. It’s just a lot easier and new.

*Manuals : Mechanics Manuals, Owners Manuals, Master Parts Lists

*EMAIL or call Mike Toll Free (1-888-648-4923) Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm EST if you have any questions about this part or restoring your Willys.

Get Connected. Stay Inspired. Build Your Willys.

If you are looking for, Willys Jeep Parts & Accessories, or Willys Jeep Restoration Parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!

Ryan Murdock’s CJ-3A

admin — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 14:30:32 +0000

I acquired a “family heirloom” CJ-3A last month and have jumped head first into a rehab project. This Willys was purchased brand new by my great grandfather and used on his farm/summer cottages in Maine. He sold the farm in the late 70′s and the Willys stayed with it. The new owners used it around the property primarily to drag a gang-reel mower around the fields right up until October 2011 when it was replaced by a shiny new Kubota.

I bought it from them, dragged it home, and immediately stripped it right down to the frame. I have never tackled anything like this before. Each time I work on any component the first step is pouring through the forum archives to figure out what the hell I’m supposed to be doing. With the exception of the body, I am doing all the work myself. I am on a limited budget so I’ve had to pass over some things that I would liked to have done otherwise. My skill level is basic at best so mistakes have undoubtedly been made along the way…but I’m OK with that… at least for now.

This is not a “restoration” but more like a “refurbishment”. The goal is to get it roadworthy again by spring and tinker with the details as time and money permit.

Kaiser Willys Jeep Blog Story – Ryan Murdock

If you would like to share your Willys Jeep Story please send us a line. We ‘d love to meet your Jeep.

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Looking for, Willys Jeep Parts, Willys Jeep replacement parts, Willys Jeep body parts and much more for your 1941-1971 Willys vehicle, you have come to the right place!